CHARACTERISTICS OF MAKEUP FOR PHOTOGRAPHY
When you look at an image in a photograph, it is flat, so it loses the appearance of volume. Makeup for photography attempts to sculpt the face so it doesn't lose the look of its natural volume when photographed and the image looks more realistic. This is achieved by darkening the hollows of the face and illuminating the high points.
Another thing that happens when you look at a photo is that you can clearly see any mistakes in the makeup. In a still image, any asymmetry or imperfection can be easily seen, so makeup must be perfect and impeccable.
Makeup for photography can be further classified by type:
MAKEUP FOR COLOR PHOTOGRAPHY
Color photography images most closely resemble real life, so makeup for this type of photography is the closest to normal makeup. However, makeup for photography should always be more intense and more defined than social makeup. Intensity will always be somewhat lessened in a photograph, so use products that give coverage without weighing down the skin.
In beauty and wedding portrait photography, especially if it is in color and not very overexposed, you can create skin textures such as matte or satin. To create a natural-looking satin texture, work with a very light foundation that allows the skin to show through. To achieve this look, it is very important that the skin be flawless.
Shininess is another texture that can be problematic for photography. However, if shine is controlled, it can go together well with soft satin textures on the high points of the face.
Undereye circles and the area around the mouth should never be shiny, since this adds volume to these zones, drawing more attention to them.
Shiny textures with a thick grain, such as glitter, are difficult to work with for photography. Many times, it is hard to tell what it is in the photo, because the glitter reflects the flash of the camera and appears as little white spots.
MAKEUP FOR OVEREXPOSED PHOTOGRAPHY
To overexpose (burn) a photograph means to let in more light than necessary. This is frequently done for shoots in fashion and advertising to refine the models' skin, achieving the look of much more perfect skin texture and harmony.
An overexposed photograph is much lighter. Unwanted shadows such as that around the creases of the smile, or unwanted textures such as enlarged pores seem to disappear or have less intensity than the features you want to draw attention to, those that you have made up.
The more overexposed the photo, the bolder the makeup needs to be.
What you see in person is not how it will turn out in the photo.
If the image is lightened significantly, it will look very white and lose color and volume, and will end up looking flat, like a black and white photo.
MAKEUP FOR BLACK AND WHITE PHOTOGRAPHY
In black and white photography, colors are transformed into a spectrum of greys ranging from black to white.
Reds become very dark greys, almost black.
Blues and greens become medium greys, depending on their intensity.
Purples and pinks become softer greys.
White will be white.
Black will be black.
One characteristic of black and white photos is that the image looks much flatter and the face loses volume due to the lack of color.
Instead of working with blends of similar colors, you can make a bigger impact by using darker and lighter shades to sculpt the face, eyes, lips, cheekbones, and nose, in this way adding volume to the image.
Do not apply blush to the fullest part of the cheeks, since adding color will sink the area. Instead, blend upward towards the highest point of the cheekbones (which you should leave clean) so that none of the fullness is lost.
In a black and white photograph that is also overexposed, the image will be even more flat, so try to sculpt all of the facial features as much as possible so that they will appear shapely and real.
TRICKS FOR IMPECCABLE MAKEUP
When you develop a photograph of makeup you've done, any minor imperfections will be much more obvious than they were in real life.
Here are some tricks that may help you to avoid common pitfalls:
The undereye area looks dirty
This happens much more often when using eyeshadows in dark shades or with glittery textures, which can be quite unpredictable. As careful as you are, it still seems to always end up under the eyes. There are several tricks to avoid this.
If you have already applied makeup to the undereye area, you can apply an excess of loose matte powder under the eyes so any falling eyeshadow won't stick to the area and can be swept away afterwards with a fan brush.
If the undereye area is already smudged, it is best to clean the area and reapply concealer, foundation, and powder after you've finished applying eyeshadow to make sure that the area is completely clean and fresh.
Photo needs more intensity
In photography, you can use a much bolder application than with social makeup, but sometimes the shadow doesn't take as well as you might like. One way to get more intensity is to apply a cream foundation followed by a powder eyeshadow. The eyeshadow will be much more concentrated and stick to the lid.
Asymmetrical lips or eyes?
Before finishing a makeup look, always check to make sure the makeup is symmetrical. Sit or stand infront of a well-lit mirror and look at the face directly from the front. Remember that when you are applying makeup, a close-up perspective is not very reliable. You always need to see the makeup overall to make sure it is uniform on both sides of the face.
Skin is too shiny
Another problem that frequently appears in photos is shiny skin. Brides beware! Shiny makeup, such as illuminators, that are intended to bring brightness and light to facial features, can when photographed in strong light (e.g. full sun) actually create an undulating appearance on the surface of the skin that looks like it's made of lumpy plasticine in your wedding photos! To avoid this, use matte products, especially in areas such as the undereye and the area around the mouth.
This doesn't mean that you can't use satin-textured products, but keep them under control, applying them sparingly only to the desired areas.