I'll let you in on a secret - eye makeup isn't easy to do, but it's only a matter of practice. I promise that if you practice, little by little you'll become an expert in making up your eyes.
Just as when we make up the skin of the face, it's very important to prepare the skin around the eyes so that the shadows will last longer and it will be easier to apply your makeup. Follow these suggestions:
• Remove makeup
Before applying makeup, make sure that your eyes and the surrounding area is totally clean. (Sometimes traces of mascara from the night before remain.) If you don't remove your makeup properly, the makeup won't look clean, and if you want that professional looking finish, this is the first thing you have to take into account.
• Special treatment
Another tip is to be careful with the area! This is the most fragile area of the face; that's why you should be very gentle, especially when removing makeup. If you have to rub hard to eliminate mascara or shadow, this means that your eye makeup remover isn't right for you.
• Eye contour cream
Before applying any other creams, use an eye cream to keep the eye area hydrated, elastic, and protected. When you apply it, apply to the area around your eyes (you don't have to apply it to your lids) and using gentle touches from the inner corners of your eye to the outside.
How to correct under eye circles and bags
Concealing circles
• To conceal circles, use a cream concealer. If you have very dark circles, this is the best choice, since liquids are very light.
• Make sure that the concealer provides enough moisture so that is doesn't dry out the area.
• Then apply concealer with a synthetic bristle brush to the under eye area, inner corners of the eye, and the roots of the lashes (normally this area is very bluish).
• Apply a small amount of product and blend it softly downward.
• Use your fingertip to tap (not pull) the area where concealer was applied to blend it and eliminate excess product.
• Use a concealer a shade lighter than that of your face. Don't use one that's too light: it will be noticeable.
• When you've finished making up your eyes, you can use an illuminator in the corner of the eye to brighten the area.
If you have mature skin, concealer and heavy powder can settle into undereye lines and wrinkles. Since you don’t want to accentuate these, gently press an oil-absorbing tissue onto the area to remove any residual greasiness, then use your fingertip to dab on the tiniest trace of finishing powder.
Concealing bags
If, on the other hand, you have bags, follow these suggestions:
• Before doing your makeup, apply an eye cream that reduces and calms the area so that it will look less puffy.
• You cannot disguise under-eye puffiness by swiping a light concealer under the eye area. The trick is to highlight just underneath the bags. By highlighting the shadowy area you will bring it out and make the puffiness recede.
• Once you've finished with your makeup, you should add a final sheer touch of translucent powder to mattify the whole area where your bags are and reduce their appearance.
Remember: to hide bags, it's important to avoid applying shimmery powders or illuminating concealers to this area, because they will make them more noticeable.
Your best colours
When I'm doing someone's makeup and I want to bring out the person's eye color, I follow these rules:
The most flattering colors for...
Blue eyes
If you have blue eyes, use these colors to make them pop:
• Pink
• Plum
• Brown
• Gold and bronze
• Very dark blue (if it's matte, even better).
• Orange or salmon
Green eyes
If you have green eyes, use these colors to make them pop:
• Purples and violets.
• Brown.
• Dark green (especially if your eyes are light green).
Brown eyes
If you have brown eyes, you're in luck, because all colors are flattering on you. However, you can use these colors in particular to make them pop:
• Grays and silvers.
• Brown.
• Black.
• Purples and violets (opt for these shades especially if your eyes have a light bit of green in them).
Light eyes
• This is one of the basic rules of makeup: if you have light eyes, use dark colours to make them pop.
Dark eyes
• Just as above, but the reverse. If you have dark eyes, use light and pearlescent colours to make them pop.
Colors you should avoid if...
Below are some colours that you should avoid to play down certain aspects of your face.
If you have heavy circles
If you have dark circles and you cannot completely hide them with your concealer, avoid these colours at all costs:
• Greens.
• Blues.
• Purples.
• Grays.
Instead of the colors above, choose warm colors such as bronzes, golds...
If you have bags
If you have bags, it is more important to avoid certain types of textures, rather than certain colors, such as pearlescent shadows and shimmery or shiny creams, especially on the lower lid. You should also always make a well-defined line with pencil or shadow between your lower lashes.